Today was an emotional and at times a distressing day as we visited the concentration camp memorial at Dachau, just outside Munich.
First however we experienced the super-efficient public transport system. The network consists of the S-Bahn (overground and underground fast trains), the U-Bahn (the underground), trams and buses all of which can be used with one ticket. One ticket for 24-hours for both of us on all forms of transport was only 11 Euros ( it was only this much because we needed to go outside of the main city zone). Definitely good value!
Anyway we got the S-Bahn and then the bus to the memorial. Notably the Germans emphasise the memorial part of the site and never simply call it a concentration camp. Also, and quite rightly, entry is free and the audio guides only 3 Euros. Both indicate the regret and remorse that modern Germany feels that these atrocities ever happened on their soil and in their name.
The camp itself was built in 1933 and was the first concentration camp, later becomming the model on which many more were to be based. The site also housed a large complex for use by the SS which are still in use today by the German army. They were also used by the Americans when the camp was liberated in 1945.
Although the camp was initially used as a labour camp for anyone resisting Hitler’s National Socialist Party it later became more like a distribution centre to the many subcamps surrounding Munich. Anyone ‘undesirable’ was sent included Jehovah’s Witnesses, homosexuals, anyone considered to be antisocial, petty criminals and, of course, Jews.
What I found particularly shocking was that Hitler’s Reich became so dependent on the camps as a means for production that companies such as BMW and Messerschmitt actually hired the slaves from the SS to meet their production orders from the government.
As Hitler began to lose his grip on his empire the camp grew and became more of a death camp. We saw the furnaces in the crematorium where the tens of thousands of bodies were incinerated. When a coal shortage broke out the bodies were piled outside.
We also saw a gas chamber which although never used for mass murder it is thought that it may well have been used for individual experimentation. Neo-Nazis later claimed that the chamber was built after the liberation by American troops. Quite why the Americans would have needed any more evidence to incriminate those involved I don’t know.
The conditions for prisoners were dreadful with disease spreading regularly as the population of the camp reached five times its capacity. Starvation and exhaustion were other common causes of death.
It is such an injustice that as America became preoccupied with the Cold War many of the worst war criminals were never actually punished for their crimes.
Dachau is very interesting and well presented. As some who has never been to a concentration camp before and has embarassingly little knowledge of WWI and WWII this was a real eye-opener.
To lighten the modd and make use of our travel ticket we decided to visit the Olympic Stadium. It was quite impressive although looking a little dated now and surrounded by a very tacky funfair. Hopefully this will not happed in London after 2012 but then we don’t have a great track record (don’t excuse the pun) for this sort of thing.
We also saw the BMW headquarters on our walk around the Olympic Park. It seems amazing to me that the same company who exploited the labour camps in WWII is today one of the world’s most successful motor companies.
Dinner tonight was in a grungy bar which is supposed to be a favorite student hang-out. It must be popular as four out of the 6 tables were reserved. We sampled currywürst and of course the beer. That and some kind of schnapps were part of the set menu. Certainly interesting and cheap too although I don’t think fine cuisine is one of Germany’s greatest assets. Fine beer on the other hand… hic!